2016 Dodge Charger Door Won’t Stay Open? Plus a Dead 12V Outlet – Real Diagnostic Breakdown
Introduction
If you’ve ever opened your car door and had it swing freely like it’s got a mind of its own, you already know how annoying—and potentially dangerous—that can be. Pair that with a dead 12-volt outlet, and now you’ve got two seemingly unrelated issues that can leave you scratching your head.
In this case, we’re working on a 2016 Dodge Charger with two complaints: a non-working front power outlet and a driver’s door that no longer holds in position. These are the kinds of problems that often get overlooked during used car inspections or brushed off as minor, but they can point to deeper issues—or at the very least, cost you time and money if misdiagnosed.
Let’s walk through this step-by-step like we would in the shop, focusing on real-world automotive troubleshooting and how to avoid common mistakes.
🔧 Recommended Tools for Diagnostics
When you're diagnosing modern vehicles, having the right tools makes all the difference. A basic code reader will only get you so far—you need tools that let you see what’s really going on and test components properly.
Autel MaxiSys MS906 Pro TS Professional OBD2 Scanner (with TPMS & full system diagnostics)
https://amzn.to/4mcEFlL
This is a full-system diagnostic tool that gives you access to modules beyond just the engine. It also handles TPMS and advanced service functions, making it a must-have if you’re serious about diagnosing car problems.
Power Probe 3 (PP3CSRED) Circuit Testing Tool
https://amzn.to/4dpuXtT
This is something I use almost daily. It allows you to quickly check power and ground, and even activate components directly. It cuts diagnostic time down significantly.
Power Probe ECT3000 Circuit Tracer (Short & Open Finder)
https://amzn.to/4cvINcf
When you’re dealing with wiring issues, this tool helps you locate shorts and open circuits without tearing the car apart. It’s a huge time-saver and prevents unnecessary parts replacement.
Vehicle Overview
We’re working with a 2016 Dodge Charger, a platform that has a few design quirks that can trip up even experienced technicians if you’re not familiar with them.
Mileage wasn’t a major factor here, but the condition of the components suggests normal wear and tear over time rather than abuse.
Vehicle Concern
The customer had two main complaints:
First, the front 12-volt outlet was completely dead. No power, no intermittent function—just not working at all.
Second, the driver’s door would swing freely without holding in any position. Normally, doors have detents that hold them partially open or fully open. This one had none.
Initial Inspection & Observations
Starting with the basics, the power outlet issue is something I always approach from a simple standpoint first: power supply.
For the door concern, the immediate observation was that the door had zero resistance when opening or closing. That tells you right away you’re dealing with a failed detent mechanism.
Now here’s where things get interesting—and where a lot of people go wrong.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes
There were no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to either issue, which is expected. These are mechanical and power distribution concerns, not something the ECM is going to flag.
Step-by-Step Diagnostic Process
1. Diagnosing the Dead 12V Outlet
A lot of guys immediately start pulling trim panels or replacing the outlet itself. That’s a mistake.
Start simple.
On this Charger, the fuse for the power outlet is not under the dash like older vehicles. It’s located in the rear Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the trunk.
After accessing the trunk and lifting the floor panel, we checked the fuse and found a blown 20-amp fuse.
Replace the fuse, test the outlet—and just like that, it’s working again.
Now, anytime you find a blown fuse, you should at least consider why it blew. In many cases, it’s something simple like:
Coins or debris inside the outlet
A faulty accessory plugged in
A momentary short
Since the outlet worked normally after replacement and didn’t blow again, this was likely a one-time event.
2. Diagnosing the Door That Won’t Stay Open
Now this is where real automotive troubleshooting comes into play.
The symptom:
Door swings freely
No detent positions
No resistance at all
Most technicians will immediately assume a failed door check strap. That’s true on many vehicles—but not all.
On this particular 2016 Dodge Charger, there is no traditional door check strap.
That’s critical to understand.
Instead, Chrysler designed this vehicle with the detent mechanism built into the lower door hinge.
So if you go hunting for a check strap inside the door or between the door and A-pillar, you’re wasting time—it’s not there.
Once that’s understood, the diagnosis becomes straightforward.
The lower hinge contains an internal mechanism made up of:
A spring
A cam or roller system
Over time, this mechanism wears out or fails, resulting in:
Loss of detent positions
Free-swinging door
By observing the hinge during operation, you’ll notice there’s no resistance or indexing—confirming internal failure.
Key Findings
The 12V outlet failure was caused by a blown 20-amp fuse in the rear PDC.
The door issue was caused by a failed internal detent mechanism in the lower hinge.
Final Diagnosis & Repair Recommendation
For the power outlet:
Replace the blown fuse
Inspect the outlet for debris or damage
For the door:
Replace the driver-side lower door hinge assembly
The detent mechanism is not serviceable separately, so the entire hinge must be replaced.
During installation:
Support the door properly
Mark hinge position if possible
Check alignment before final torque
Common Causes of This Problem
When it comes to diagnosing car problems like this, here are the most common causes:
For power outlet failures:
Blown fuse from short circuit
Foreign objects inside outlet
Faulty accessories
For door detent issues:
Worn internal hinge mechanism
Broken internal spring
Long-term wear from frequent use
Lessons for DIYers & Used Car Buyers
This case highlights something important: not all vehicles are built the same, and assumptions can cost you time and money.
If you’re inspecting a used car and notice:
A door that won’t stay open
Non-functioning power outlets
Don’t ignore it.
These may seem minor, but they can indicate:
Poor maintenance
Hidden wear
Or design-specific failures that require the correct parts and knowledge
Understanding symptoms and common causes is key when doing any kind of automotive troubleshooting.
Don’t Get Burned on Your Next Used Car
If you’re thinking about buying a used car—or even if you already have one—this is exactly the kind of problem that can slip through the cracks and cost you big money later.
After 35+ years in the automotive field, I’ve seen firsthand how often people end up with vehicles that have hidden issues just like this.
That’s why I put together a simple Used Car Guide to help you understand what to look for and how to avoid making a costly mistake.
It’s a quick, practical guide designed to give you the right mindset and approach before you buy.
👉 Get the guide here:
https://stan.store/BobbyWhiteside
It’s a smart first step toward making a better used car decision.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you purchase through them—at no additional cost to you. I only recommend tools and products that I personally use or trust in real-world diagnostics.
Comments
Post a Comment